Dan was my little brother in dental school. He was a year below me in school, but decades ahead of everyone in surfing ability. He works as a general dentist in Laguna and shapes all the shortboards for his family's surfboard label, Infinity.
Monday, October 24, 2005
Dan Boehne
Dan was my little brother in dental school. He was a year below me in school, but decades ahead of everyone in surfing ability. He works as a general dentist in Laguna and shapes all the shortboards for his family's surfboard label, Infinity.
Jeremy Porfilio
JP has 2 big toes that are the size of an ape's. He wraps those things around the nose of the board and doesn't let go. In my opinion, he is one of the best noseriders I know. His bag of tricks is endless. Why I was taking pictures this day and not surfing is beyond me.I'll also try to post the pics of him surfing pretty big Haleiwa when he came to visit me this past Spring.
Swamis, North County San Diego
When I was at UCLA, I quickly realized that surf was better in San Diego than LA. North County was especially good. We were driving back from Pacific Beach and decided to stop off at Encinitas and check Swamis. There was a clean overhead swell, and I just picked off the smaller ones. This remains one of my top 5 longboard sessions of all time.
Impressive Day at Topanga
Topanga isn't the most conducive point to incoming swells since it faces south. But a good 270 NW gives it some nice form with long walls that won't close. Waves off the point are usually a fraction of the size you would find off the point in Ventura.
Pokai Bay, Oahu.
Todd Pinder makes some good boards. This one is not one of them- it's too slow. Fortunately, the waves were good that day.
Tuesday, October 11, 2005
Sunday, October 09, 2005
This guy duct tapes fins to his bodyboard.
Rocky is a guy who rides a sponge at Topanga. And only Topanga. He will not wear a wetsuit- ever. He looks like my Dad, and he grunts a lot like some crazy people do. I used to eat lunch with him at Carl's Jr. after surfing, but he kind of weirded me out after a while.
Jeremy with the heels over
This is Jeremy. He's one of my best friends, and he surfs pretty, pretty good. His nickname is Papaya. I can think of several nicknames that are much tougher.
Thursday, October 06, 2005
Monday, October 03, 2005
Sunday, October 02, 2005
Thursday, September 29, 2005
Wahiawa, Oahu.
Lunch with Jock Sutherland at Sunny Side Grill. He eats the turkey sandwich straight up with ice water. I like the pork tofu with a large coke. I don't have a North Shore surf spot named after me.
Wednesday, September 28, 2005
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
September Sessions
New Jersey can offer some off-shore mornings with some fast waves. But so does Hawaii. This was us out today at Meters, Seaside Park, NJ.Bee-lined it to Seaside Park last night to Marc's beach house. Went to his favorite dive bar called 'Captain Hooks' and watched him hustle 3 guys on the ping pong table, and had some chicken wings and beer.
5:30 am dawn patrol the next day. The water dropped at least 10 degrees overnight: it was pretty cold.
A sausage and egg sandwich, a coffee, and two hours later, I was back at Einstein at 10:30am to do endo.
Marc's Beach House
Marc has a pretty nice beach house overlooking the break. He also has a pretty sparse refrigerator. Which of these food groups would you call dibs on for dinner?
Sunday, September 18, 2005
First surf in 3 months. Seaside Park, NJ.
Clay let me borrow his car so I could get wet for the first time in 3 months. The drive was 1.5 hours each way, but was very worth it. Surf was about waist high, but doable on the fish at Seaside Park, NJ. The remnants of Hurrican Ophelia were apparently long gone.
Thanks to Marc Heimmel, M.D. for hosting me at his beachhouse (see pic) and showing me the breaks. He showed me some pics from yesterday, when the hurricane was here. "It was pretty fun. Too bad you weren't here yesterday."
Friday, September 16, 2005
Thursday, September 08, 2005
Friday, September 02, 2005
Wednesday, August 31, 2005
Tuesday, August 30, 2005
Larry Ugale: October 4, 1949 - August 17, 2005
Paddle out for Larry: One man inspired many!
JP called me this weekend, telling me he placed 6th overall at the Oceanside club contest, surfing left!