Wet feet

Strong trades have been around for days!

Evening cap is the best!

Bacci Ball and Bonzers

Mr. Plecostamus fish was sent off to Valdhalla. He was 1 week old.


We were feeling better, and we noticed the crisp offshore conditions with a pinch of swell. Took out some Bonzers and headed to the beach.


Not feeling super hot, and not sure if we wanted to surf, so we screwed around playing bacci ball at the beach. Couldn't resist a surf...

Ended up going out, and stayed out for an hour and half. Lefts and rights! Got back in and started playing another installation of bacci ball.


It was worth it. There was a nice evening drizzle. I think everyone out had fun.

What a beautiful Sunday evening. Feeling better already. It's awesome here.

Sick-o...

...so we're laying low in the A/C resting and watching the tube. Check out some of these contrasting styles!

Late October = Best Party

Getting towards the end of October means one thing: freakshow! Here we were at the Pacific Club. Now, on to the highlights.Portugese man in blue.


This duo proclaimed that they were procreating panda bears and making miracles. With an enema kit?

A poor man's Wesley Snipes' Blade. Actually, it was my favorite costume.


Insert caption here.

Bi curious George and Snow White.


Cobra Kai Johnny attempts to take some Kettle One from the shot luge!


Go Go girls. Who brought them?


Superferry slinging should remain at home- or on Maui or Kaui.


Tomb raker.


Norman! Norman!

Day Off

Looks like big business wants to extinguish the remnants of Fall and send us catapulting into the Holidays. Here, it looks like Santa has been decapitated and severed at the belly, and displayed for all the little boys and girls to see.

There were some more trace waves out there for our friend John, who was in town for a wave or two. We had a couple rare chesties out at Concessions.



Waiola Shave Ice #1 on Waiola Street is a frontrunner for best shave ice in town.

These folks came out of the zombie woodwork to enjoy some shave ice. The lady on the right is wondering if hers is half empty or half full.

The Zombies decided shave ice didn't have as much carbs as brains, and wandered back into the streets.

They make the ice super fine at Waiola!


Grape and watermelon hash up pretty well together.

Trace elements.

The fun little pulse of S swell that passed through town is back to waist high lines = 9'4"

Orange Fish, Fish Feet, Fishbot

A variant of the fish.

It's been an awesome last 4 days here for Oahu surfing.

The North Shore was firing some arrows on Saturday. There was a lot of water under the break at Chun's/Piddlies.

On Sunday, Diamond head was going off with some fun 3-5' sets with ripe cherry conditions. There was a Breast Cancer walk that day that shut down the Kapiolani park and the entries into Diamond Head, so the crowd was light. Monday had a nice little hana hou serving of 2-3' waves, perfect for any board.

And today, had some fun down the line 2' chasers at Shallows, which was groomed by a fantastically smooth NE wind. I'd like to share with everyone this neat little board that's been in our possession for a couple years, the Pescado by Scott Anderson.

It's a displacement hull with a swallow tail and a Red-X thruster set up. I haven't had so much fun projecting off the bottom to the top with full rails buried in a long time. Cheater fives, scoots to the front to trim, S-turns resets were all in this board's repertoire.


The incomplete hull bottom and extra width make this thing a joy to paddle and a thrill to slide!

I bagged this description from some guy. Sorry about not giving you props: "Scott Anderson shapes the Bojorquez pescado. Scott is one of the most versatile shapers around and runs Aquatech in the Venice Beach/Marina del Rey area. The pescado was first designed/shaped by Estaban Bojorquez (aka Steve Krajewski) who was one of the Liddle guys from the late 60's to the 80's.

The board is a modified or updated hull (low rocker, pinched rail with a very subtle convex bottom) with a shallow swallow tail. It was initially designed with a standard thruster set up. The idea was to keep the best features of a hull (highline trim, banked rail turns) with the snap of a thruster. Scott updated the shape by thinning it, adding edges to the tail rails to work with a cluster fin set up and tweeked the rocker, also to work better with a thruster fin set up.

I have a 6'8 but he can shrink the shape down to 6'2 or bump it up to 7'+. I had Scott put Futures on the rails with the normal cant and toe in but added a 10 inch Bahne box for a stabilizer. That way I can run it as a thruster or a single fin. With the right fins (5.5" custom Halcyon carbon fiber "driffta") the board works just as intended...stand in the middle and it draws nice rail turns, trims and drives like a single. Move your stance to the rear and it cranks as vertical as you'd like. My set up and slightly heavier glass job likes waves from chest to well overhead best. It would be a great transition board if you want to get into the whole hull thing and you are currently riding a standard thruster. I ride all kinds of different designs and the pescado is definately the most versatile board I've ridden."

For some eye stimulus about displacement hulls, check out the trailer video for Alex Kopps' film, 'Displacement,' or read about one man's firsthand experience here.

Additional reading (very worthwhile):
Swaylocks "Post Hull Pics" thread with over 25 pages of this stuff.
AllAboutSurf.com "Six Feet to Fit" article with quicktime videos.

Forever and ever.

Damon and Kristy got Married at the Willows. It was a great wedding with a fun casino night.

Some local surf legends were in attendance.

Some people even won a lot of real money.

Congrats to the newlyweds!

Tom Curren at Sandspit

The Gayborhood

I was just reminiscing about the fun and inspiring time I had living at 12th and South, just on the fringe of neo-urban culture.

There was a rooftop deck we had that overlooked the cityscape. Johnny Carson would woo his women with his grilling skills and a dinner for 2, followed by a warm blanket on the sofa with a Phils game or an On-Demand movie of her choice!

John's Recipe for Old Bay shrimp:
-medium/large cocktail shrimp
-Ranch dressing
-Old bay seasoning
-Bamboo skewers soaked in water (as to not burn)
-Select veggies
-Freshly ground pepper and salt to taste

1. Coat shrimp with ranch dressing. Sprinkle heartily with old bay seasoning and place on bamboo skewers
2. Grill both sides until slightly crispy
3. Marinate veggies with olive oil. Salt and pepper to taste.
4. Serve with Brooklyn Summer Ale or Lager.

The Terrifying Tale Of Large Marge !!

Be sure to tell them that Large Marge sent you!

Tommy Guerrero - Future Primitive - 1985

Not Brucey!!!!

Hahaha. Pammy thinks this guy is Bruce Irons.

Best Ahi Poke in Town.

Just got back from California- 3 consecutive fun days of surfing with Porfilio. I need a shoulder replacement surgery.

Decided to try something different today and I headed over to Diamond Head Cliffs to surf with all the Rick Kane Haole transplants and the Takahashi Tudors. The surf was sloppy mushburgers, so I zipped over to Ono's Seafood for the best poke in town (thanks Ed!).

Use this script: "1/2 pound ahi poke with everything on it."

GONZ! YOUNG LIONS REMIX

Good one.

The break is working today! Amen.

Looks like swell today!!

Orange County

Ferocious Female Freedom Fighters Trailer

Pamela Fong inspired cinema

Make the Flat Days Fun - Twinny Fish

Killing it at Secos!

Thumb, Fish, Bonzer

A couple of Arrows.

For small wave stuff, go 24" wide.

Japanese MOTORS, Ventura

Weird, but appreciated.

Ventura County Surfing

Evan's an old friend from Ventura who I've known for a long time.

Queen's Contest

Pamela goes for the end.