Casino Pier

First time in 6 years that I've worn these. It took 6 minutes to take them off.

Casino Pier is a small pier in New Jersey. Contrary to what some people (who are not from the area) think, it is not in Atlantic City. This tiny pier collects a funky sand bottom that sets the stage for some pretty fun bowly peaks. Surfer Mag recently ran a 2 page spread (see below) of the pier in the Jack Johnson/Chris Malloy issue.

I was thinking to myself, while surfing here, that this place is better than any beach break in the South Bay. El Porto and Hermosa may break 365 days a year, but the quality of this wave is pretty good. But the water sure is cold. In Jersey, booties aren't a faux pas. It's cold outside, so the old wetsuit in the car while driving to and from the break is allowed here, and not laughed upon.

Road Trip!

This is the quintessential road trip picture. You're cooking bangers and onions on a portable gas grill that's not yours on somebody else's homebreak, not really caring that unridden head high machine lefts break off the point in the background. You think to yourself, "this is a pretty good surf trip."

What is so special about the surf road trip? Is it chasing swells, or arriving at the beach before they come? Surfable waves are elusive. They come and go like emotions, and they have a profound effect on us. Strange how that works.

New Zealand offers some California point wave perfection minus 250,000 surftech longboards and spring suit booty men, and L.A. pretense. Every drive is scenic. The landscape is gorgeous: a throwback to pre-industrialization and untended American blight. The surfers are friendly in NZ. They are cordial and efficient. They don't care about image, and they kill it out in the surf. We had the fortune of stumbling onto Manu Bay on the last 2 days of our trip. Surf was initially double overhead on the sets and firing off the point. After a fun evening of surf, we returned the next day, only to find a local club surf contest. The surf was still firing, and we were saddened we would have to go elsewhere. But low and behold, The Pointriders Surf Club invited us to participate in their contest, and by that night, we had more friends than we could count. We left the next morning, feeling quite satisfied. Where else in the world can you find a surf club that is sponsored by Lion Red Beer? That's me, at the contest's end, toasting a Lion Red to Ray, the winner of the men's mal division.

What goes around, comes around.

Yes, this is the world's smallest, crappiest photo, taken with the world's biggest cell phone, the Treo 600.



As I came out of my Saturday Bowl's session last week, I was surprised to see a Japanese surfer carrying an old board of mine. This little green monster is a Tyler 6'0" fish I had shaped for me back in the last century. I put it on consignment because the army green took too much heat from the sun. Also, the board has managed to send me to the hospital a couple times. I pointed out to this gentleman that my name was written quite large in posca pen under the Tyler logo, something he never noticed.

Well, my little friend, it was nice to see you- in good hands.

Ala Moana Bowls and its favorite son.

"Hey, make sure you get a picture of me with the house in the back showing! I have a buddy who does this stupid blog, and that's his place."

I don't drive...

Back in 2004, I sold this shirt to some Florida jackass on eBay for $35. It put a tank of gas in my Ford Ranger that lasted 2 weeks. Unleaded fuel is like crack cocaine that mid-size pickups just can't get enough of.

Yes, this blog is getting more poetic and less photographic. I apologize.

Being in Honolulu last week was quite frustrating, because I had to drive. My faithful truck that I bought on the Lemon Lot at Hickam AFB was sputtering and not wanting to work for me. We had been going steady for about 2 1/2 years with no real problems. But I guess she had attachment issues with me being away for so long, and since nobody had given her attention in 4+ months, let alone tried to turn the key in her ignition, refusing to start was her way of telling me how much she resented me for jilting her. I suppose the the crappy clutch pedal was another hidden message she was sending me. I'm not sure if we're going to work out in the long run, but I tried to smooth things out between us for the week I was there. She's so damn emotional, I tell you.

Since my move out here to the East Coast, I have put on a new hat. It's my non-driving hat. I'm single again! I can't tell you how liberating it is to be without a vehicular girlfriend for once! This, does, however, have a few consequences.

First, it requires that I use public transportation. Do I mind? Not really, it's good for me. I'm no better than the American sitting next to me that doesn't drive a car, or own a car for that matter. The Philadelphia subway is a rat and piss-infected labrynthe, but it is fast, semi-efficient, and somewhat edgy, since the people that ride the Broad Street Line are so damn scary. It makes me feel dangerous, and that's a cool part of city living.

Second, I have to mooch rides off people when I travel long distance. This can be somewhat embarassing to put yourself at someone's mercy, but I do offer gas money as a substitution for volunteering to drive (this is something I don't care to do). So I have many people to thank. Among them include Clay (surf and beer), Marc (surf and beer), Cary, Sharon (interstate transportation), and Cathy (to be taken advantage of in the future. You just don't know it yet). You guys are the best.

In any case, I don't waste my time doing errands in cars, nor do I sweat traffic anymore. There's no more 8:00am H-1 or 405 freeway stoppage.

In fact, a good bulk of my finances are done online, as is a good deal of my shopping (think amazon.com). Do you think I'd have time for this silly blog if I had a car? Heck no. Less time in car=more time for blogging.

Soundtrack. Soundtrack.

Recently, I've been quizzed by a few individuals as to what kind of music strikes my fancy. Well, here's a little insight.

Currently on rotation is:

B.B. King- Gold (depressing blues can flip anybody's innner lightswitch to mellow.)
Daddy G- DJ Kicks (to satisfy that weird dreadlock envy inside all of us)
Federico Aubele- Gran Hotel Buenos Aires (Tango + DJ beats = palatable audio combination)
The Ramones- any. (This is good bike riding music, it keeps your heart rate above 120)
Stan Getz- Plays, Best of the West Coast Sessions (This is quintessessential cold night music. I prefer pre-bossa nova Getz)

Yep. That's this week's picks.

The "Elbow"

When I think of the 'elbow' of a wave, I think of the part where the curl bends off, and leaves ahead of it, a ruler edge shoulder with a long, long wall. Kind of like Pam's Raglan wave.

Wandering Minds...

When I was 14 years old in Biology 101, it was kind of boring. The lighting was always really dark in the room. The kid next to me used to doodle and draw naked pictures of ladies, thinking I didn't notice. Now I'm 28, sitting in a dark room listening to a lecture, and I draw fantasy pictures of surfboards.


Went to Besthesda, Maryland for the past few days for the Pennick Endo Study Club. It was a real classy event with a lot of smart people. I Learned some interesting things, and washed down a Katsu Don with some Kirins in Washington DC for dinner.

A sunset I haven't seen in a while.

The sun sets on Ala Moana- something I've taken for granted. It's good to be back.


I was back in town 10/21-10/29 and it was nice to see everybody again, and surf with the old crew.

Ed put a ding in his new Model-T when we went out for a session about an hour after I got in. The Fongs, Pam and Tim were ripping, too. I was just stoked to ride a longboard with my friends for the first time in 4 months. We got Bowls on a Saturday all to ourselves with chest high sets. Alas, it had to end. I'll see everyone again in December.

Cherry Picking

Bowls, of course.


In a recent conversation, somebody was described as a "Bowl's Rat" because they like to surf at the Bowl. Okay, that acceptable.

However, what about someone that surfs Bowls daily and nowhere else? Well, I guess that's a little more extreme. Ed declares himself a "Bowls Specialist," a title that is quite fitting.

When it's raining...

When it's raining by the ocean in California, chances are it's snowing in someplace higher. Those that can, try their luck in water's alternate medium. Here, Pam boosts a big one in the background.

Damon Schmidt, Maldives

Name: Damon Schmidt
Location: Maldives
Residence: Honolulu, Hawaii
Occupation: Attorney- Goodsill, Anderson, Quinn & Steifel
Favorite Food: Sandwich
Favorite Beer: Bud Light + bucket of ice.

Baja Mexico

While in dental school, we used to frequent Baja Mex quite a bit. It was fun with friends. It was cheap. It was shady. I also never knew that they put cinammon in the Coke.

This was the inside right at the Las Gaviotas Complex. The wetsuit I'm wearing was custom ordered from Japan and it has lasted me 6 1/2 years to date without leaking. The board's a 9'8" Tyler Craftsman Noserider that is somewhere in Derrick Fu's garage.

Another Costa Rica Shot

This appears to be a floater attempt, one I probably did not land. The board was a 9'2" Dewey Weber Pintail Stylist that weighed a good 20+ lbs. Photo: John Lyman

Mr. H

Ivan Harada is a quasi-legend at Waikiki. He has some game. I met him on my first trip to New Zealand at the Wainui Beach Break. He has a nice wife and 2 funny sons that I see performing in Chinese lion dance costumes all over town. They surf pretty good, too. Mr. H has a break named after him, an occasional fun right that ropes off of Canoes into the left channel at Queen's.

"Team Pussy"

One of the more amusing pictures I think I've taken was of this guy sitting on top of the wall at the Venice Breakwater parking lot. His buddy is dropping into big post-storm waves, while he is basically a cheerleader. He is unknowingly sitting on top of a "Team Pussy" that my friend Jamie graffitied into the wall with some of her surf wax. The wave in the distance is a triple overhead set, pretty rare for Venice!

Manu Bay

This is Manu Bay, literally just around the corner from Whale Bay. if you are into perfect lefts, this is for you. I would trade the entire South Shore of Oahu, except for Threes and maybe Diamond Head on a good day for this break. This was a double overhead day at the point. I didn't surf it- I bee-lined it to Whale Bay and almost got killed there instead (read previous entry).

Whale Bay

Whale Bay is a hot dogging left in New Zealand that I surfed a few years ago. I recommend you study the wave before you actually surf it. I almost killed myself on that submerged rock you see (right by the open section in front of the curl of that breaking wave).

I got pitched over the falls on to it, and it was captured on videotape as 2 guys in the background are overheard saying, "that guy is hamburger." Fortunately, no heads were split and no injuries were sustained.

Dan Boehne

Dan was my little brother in dental school. He was a year below me in school, but decades ahead of everyone in surfing ability. He works as a general dentist in Laguna and shapes all the shortboards for his family's surfboard label, Infinity.

Jeremy Porfilio

JP has 2 big toes that are the size of an ape's. He wraps those things around the nose of the board and doesn't let go. In my opinion, he is one of the best noseriders I know. His bag of tricks is endless. Why I was taking pictures this day and not surfing is beyond me.

I'll also try to post the pics of him surfing pretty big Haleiwa when he came to visit me this past Spring.

Swamis, North County San Diego

When I was at UCLA, I quickly realized that surf was better in San Diego than LA. North County was especially good. We were driving back from Pacific Beach and decided to stop off at Encinitas and check Swamis. There was a clean overhead swell, and I just picked off the smaller ones. This remains one of my top 5 longboard sessions of all time.

Impressive Day at Topanga

Topanga isn't the most conducive point to incoming swells since it faces south. But a good 270 NW gives it some nice form with long walls that won't close. Waves off the point are usually a fraction of the size you would find off the point in Ventura.

Pokai Bay, Oahu.

Todd Pinder makes some good boards. This one is not one of them- it's too slow. Fortunately, the waves were good that day.

Playa Tamarindo, Costa Rica

Photo: John Lyman. He took this shot from the beach.

Rockpile Lefts: Laura

9'0 Salmon Takayama Beach Break

Bowls. Ed.

This is how you pull out of a closing section in style.

More hang heels.

Jeremy with the trump card move.

This guy duct tapes fins to his bodyboard.

Rocky is a guy who rides a sponge at Topanga. And only Topanga. He will not wear a wetsuit- ever. He looks like my Dad, and he grunts a lot like some crazy people do. I used to eat lunch with him at Carl's Jr. after surfing, but he kind of weirded me out after a while.

Jeremy with the heels over

This is Jeremy. He's one of my best friends, and he surfs pretty, pretty good. His nickname is Papaya. I can think of several nicknames that are much tougher.

Queen of Marinelands-Pam.

Custom Artwork by J. "1350 Model"

Featured on a Dave Parmenter 5'10" fish.

Cover Shot Ed. Bowls.

photo: Jamie Ballenger

Art Wall of Subway Sketches

Mostly doodling from 30 minutes a day spent on the subway.

Wahiawa, Oahu.

Lunch with Jock Sutherland at Sunny Side Grill. He eats the turkey sandwich straight up with ice water. I like the pork tofu with a large coke. I don't have a North Shore surf spot named after me.

16th Floor Clubhouse View of Courts Rights

September Sessions

New Jersey can offer some off-shore mornings with some fast waves. But so does Hawaii. This was us out today at Meters, Seaside Park, NJ.

Bee-lined it to Seaside Park last night to Marc's beach house. Went to his favorite dive bar called 'Captain Hooks' and watched him hustle 3 guys on the ping pong table, and had some chicken wings and beer.

5:30 am dawn patrol the next day. The water dropped at least 10 degrees overnight: it was pretty cold.

A sausage and egg sandwich, a coffee, and two hours later, I was back at Einstein at 10:30am to do endo.

Marc's Beach House

Marc has a pretty nice beach house overlooking the break. He also has a pretty sparse refrigerator. Which of these food groups would you call dibs on for dinner?

Venice Beach

Back in the day near my place off of Pacific Avenue.

First surf in 3 months. Seaside Park, NJ.

Clay let me borrow his car so I could get wet for the first time in 3 months. The drive was 1.5 hours each way, but was very worth it. Surf was about waist high, but doable on the fish at Seaside Park, NJ. The remnants of Hurrican Ophelia were apparently long gone.

Thanks to Marc Heimmel, M.D. for hosting me at his beachhouse (see pic) and showing me the breaks. He showed me some pics from yesterday, when the hurricane was here. "It was pretty fun. Too bad you weren't here yesterday."

A Square Peg at Bowls!

Marineland

Photo: Dave Brown

Marineland

photo: Dave Brown

Rockpiles Lefts: Ed

photo: dave brown